Quirky festive event sees Chester return to ‘Roman rule’ for one night only
Chester’s various festive traditions and parades include a rather unusual one which harks back to the days of the Roman occupation of what was then known as Deva. The ancient festival of Saturnalia, which honours the dedication of the temple of the god Saturn, is a nod to the city’s Roman heritage. And it’s still celebrated to this day in the city, with an annual Saturnalia parade through the streets of the city one evening in December.
This year, the parade will take place on Thursday, December 14. It even includes a guest appearance by Emperor Domitian, who addresses his subjects as part of the flaming-torch parade. Chester[1] tourist guide David Atkinson, who will be talking about Saturnalia during his Dark Chester tours this weekend, said the festival was a period of anarchy in the city, when the streets were filled with Mardi Gras-style celebrations and self-appointed Lords of Misrule causing mischief by issuing ‘dare-you’ orders to other citizens.
He said there would have been plenty of bawdy behaviour, heavy drinking and gambling, which was normally banned, along with a huge feast involving suckling pigs. READ: UK’s only actor-led Roman experience to launch in Chester[2] DEVA Roman Experience aims to give people a dramatic taste of life in Roman-occupied Chester READ: The Chester church built on the epicentre of ‘Britain’s most Roman city’[3] St Peter’s Church sits where the key movers and shakers of Roman Britain would have gathered
David said the parade has its origins in ancient Rome way back in December 497 BC, when the first Saturnalia festival took place. And the festival lives on in Chester, where one evening in December, Saturnalia returns. These days it’s a somewhat tamer affair, with Chester’s Deva Victrix 20th Legion taking back control of their city as Chester Roman Tours celebrate Saturnalia.
The city returns to Roman occupation for one night as it moves back in time to 47/48 AD with the Roman Legion soldiers marching through the city with flaming torches.
Chester Saturnalia parade 2017 (Image: David Sejrup)
Explaining more about this quirky nod to Chester’s Roman occupation, David said: “Saturnalia, the ancient Roman festival to honour the dedication of the temple of the god Saturn, is the source of some traditions we now associate with the festive season in Chester. The first Saturnalia, whereby masters became slaves and salves became masters, was celebrated in ancient Rome in December 497 BC. “It was originally only one day but became so popular that it was extended to a week, from December 17 to 23, despite Augustus’s efforts to reduce it to three days, and Caligula’s to five.
The festival survives to this day in the Roman-heritage city of Chester, the parade of flaming lanterns taking to the streets to mark the start.
Chester Saturnalia parade 2017 (Image: David Sejrup)
“It recreates the festival first celebrated during Chester’s 400 years as a fortress town, having been founded by Romans as Deva in 74AD. Saturnalia was a period of anarchy, the streets of Chester filled with Mardi Gras-style celebrations and self-appointed Lords of Misrule, who caused mischief by issuing ‘dare-you’ orders to other citizens, and plenty of bawdy behaviour, heavy drinking and gambling, which was normally banned. “The festival was accompanied by the sacrifice of suckling pigs, later devoured as part of a huge feast.”
And explaining the role of Emperor Domitian in the festivities, David added: “As is tradition at the Saturnalia parade, the Emperor Domitian will address his subjects as part of the flaming-torch parade.
The Roman Saturnalia Parade in Chester in 2019. (Image: Cheshire West and Chester Council)
“He says ‘remember who and what I am. I am a sword that sings in the dark. I am the sound of a legion marching to war.
I am the axe that thuds into your scull. I am accuser, judge and executioner. I am Imperator.
I am a living God. I am Caesar. I am Rome’.”
English Heritage say that 2,000 years ago ‘Lo Saturnalia!’ was the seasonal greeting which would have been said across most of Europe in December, and not the phrase we use now – ‘Merry Christmas’.
For more information about David Atkinson’s Dark Chester tours visit the Chester Visitor Information Centre on Town Hall Square.
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References
- ^ Chester (www.cheshire-live.co.uk)
- ^ UK’s only actor-led Roman experience to launch in Chester (www.cheshire-live.co.uk)
- ^ The Chester church built on the epicentre of ‘Britain’s most Roman city’ (www.cheshire-live.co.uk)
- ^ Sign up for CheshireLive email direct to your inbox here (www.cheshire-live.co.uk)