‘If that’s happened to someone so high profile who has done so well, then what’s going to happen to the others?’

04/01/2024

With its leafy streets, buzzing brunch scene and huge houses with sprawling gardens, its not hard to see why Didsbury [1] continues to be one of the most covetable places to live in south Manchester. In terms of its food and drink scene, it’s well stocked for breakfast options, but also boasts cosy neighbourhood restaurants, late-night drinking spots, and dining institutions that have called it home for decades. Sadly though, this week it was confirmed that one Didsbury institution has called it a day after more than 30 years in business.

Walk down Lapwing Lane in West Didsbury towards Burton Road, and you’ll usually see Greens packed to the rafters, but on Tuesday, the lights were turned off at the hit vegetarian restaurant after its owners confirmed its sudden closure [2]. Co-owned by celebrity chef and Sunday Brunch host Simon Rimmer and his business partner Simon Connolly, Greens opened in the suburb in 1990, paving the way for the popularisation of vegetarian dining in Greater Manchester and beyond – it was truly trailblazing. But on Tuesday afternoon, a joint statement on their website explained that they could ‘no longer make it work’ as a rent increase of 35%, coupled with the rising cost of ingredients, power and staff, made it ‘impossible’ to continue.

Try MEN Premium now with our amazing New Year offer… just click here [3] to give it a go. Customers, fans and celebrity friends of Rimmer were quick to share their sadness at the ‘devastating’ news [4], while some described the rent increase as “daylight robbery”. Fellow chef Tony Rodd, who also announced the closure of his highly regarded restaurant on Tuesday wrote: “I’m so sorry Chef.

We’ve done the same today. It’s a horrific situation we all find ourselves in, through no fault of our own. Stay strong to you and the team.”

James Allcock, who announced the closure of his eatery the Pig and Whistle in East Yorkshire last month added: “Sorry to hear this chef. Had to make the same call myself on the 28th – broken and breaking! Worrying if someone like you after 33 years equally can’t make it work now.

Shows how truly broken the industry is.” While Greens’ sister site on Stanley Square in Sale [5], which opened back in 2022, will remain open, the closure of Greens’ flagship site marks the end of an era. More than that, its a stark reminder that no business is immune from the volatile nature of the current trading environment, as rising costs of electricity, gas and food cripple not only consumers, but hospitality too.

And while Didsbury is still one of Greater Manchester’s most affluent suburbs, consumer behaviour has changed as many cut back in the face of the Cost of Living Crisis, resulting in fewer meals out and less footfall along its tree-lined streets. It’s a reality that many businesses across West Didsbury – especially around Burton Road – are all too aware of.

‘It’s heartbreaking – they are a pillar of our community’

Inside A Taste of Honey, a popular deli and coffee spot just down from Burton Road tram stop, owner Penny is clearly quite moved by the closure of Greens. Holding back tears, the business owner explains that it’s an extremely difficult time for hospitality and reflects on the kindness one of Greens’ co-owners has shown her over the last six years.

“It’s heartbreaking, they’re a pillar of our community and the flagship,” she says. “We just love them and they’ve been so supportive, and such great neighbours – the whole road along here is devastated. “It’s so sad, I know Simon Connolly very well and he’s been great with me, always offered lots of advice, I’ve popped in for coffee, and he’s helped me where he can. We’re all going to be all very sad and lost without them – it actually makes me cry.

Penny from A Taste of Honey on Burton Road, West Didsbury (Image: Manchester Evening News)

“Sadly, it’s a similar situation across hospitality right now.

It’s difficult because no one has any money and rents are increasing, bills and energy are going up. I know I’m not meant to say this, but honestly, it’s just a s*** show.” On the issues she’s currently facing, she says it’s tricky to entice customers who can get a cheaper meal deal next door, pointing to her neighbour Tesco Express. “It’s been so hard to the point that it brings you to your knees, whatever you try and do to keep going, it just doesn’t seem to work.[6]

“People want to support the hospitality community and shop local but you can’t compete with Tesco for example on things like sandwiches and meal deals. And you can understand why people are buying cheaper meal deals and coffees. “It’s just very difficult, we have some lovely produce, some is even sourced from Macclesfield Forest, but you can’t compete with the big supermarkets.”

It comes as a report from Barclays found that restaurants saw a spending decline of 6.7% in 2023, as more consumers spent less on eating out to account for rises in household bills. In October, the bank also reported that almost half of consumers were planning to cut down on discretionary spending to enable them to pay energy bills in the autumn and winter months.

A Taste of Honey in West Didsbury (Image: Manchester Evening News)

Penny adds: “You try to buy local and use smaller, sustainable suppliers but it’s getting harder and harder, prices have just gone from the roof. The money just isn’t here, and while it’s an affluent area people have got big mortgages to pay.

“Since the pandemic people have also become much more aware of what they are eating and doing more meal prep or taking their own food to work. I feel like we’re one of the first things to go because people will make their own sandwiches or coffee into work.” Following Greens anncounment yesterday, Sacha Lord issued a stark warning [7], explaining that the mounting financial pressures on small business were “no longer viable”, and called on MPs still on recess to meet with business owners to better understand the issues their currently facing.

“The closure of Greens is a stark example that even in regions of relatively high disposable income, the financial pressures on small businesses are simply no longer viable especially when household budgets are being squeezed more than ever by food price inflation or rising energy costs,” he wrote. “On countless occasions we have seen policy u-turns due to the lack of understanding of the most pressing issues, or measures which could significantly boost trade being misunderstood or neglected entirely, such as a reduction in VAT for hospitality to match European counterparts or the specific appointment of a minister for hospitality who can better advise on the complexities of the industry.” For Penny, it’s her energy costs that make he most worried. “The biggest thing for us is the energy bills, they’ve literally quadrupled, my electricity bill has gone from GBP300 to GBP1,000 a month.

Minimum wage has gone up too, which is good but for small businesses there needs to be some concession.”

‘It isn’t good for the area’

Down the road at wine shop Reserve Wines, which has concessions inside food halls in Manchester, Macclesfield and Altrincham, as well as Bents Garden Centre, the situation isn’t quite as bleak, but the closure of Greens has given them pause for thought. “It’s definitely sad and we’ve been talking amongst ourselves this morning in the senior leadership team about the effect of businesses like that changing,” says Michael Stanton, Reserve Wines’ Commercial Manager.[8] “It isn’t good for the area at all for someone who has been here so long and with a big national presence as well to close. The difficulties in running an independent business right now are really stacking up, and that’s why it’s important for us to be supportive of other local businesses as well.

Michael Stanton, Reserve Wines’ Commercial Manager (Image: Manchester Evening News)

“Christmas [9] has been a really nice and busy period for us and speaking to other independents along here, the reaction to supporting independent businesses has been very positive throughout December.

It still feels like a busy place to come and visit, especially at weekends and evenings. “But it’s still tough, we’ve seen footfall taper off slightly. The big thing is that costs are going up everywhere and that’s difficult to manage.

“That’s a bit easier for us to manage as a smaller operation but footfall is slightly down as people feel the effects of the cost-of-living crisis. Generally though there are still a lot of people around. It’s a double-edged sword for many businesses at the moment.”

Established in 1991, Steranko, a hit clothing store on Burton Road housed within a former confectioners, has been around almost as long as Greens, so its owner is well placed to understand the impact of its departure. “I’m very saddened to hear of it, it’s part of the furniture around here, so it’s a big loss to the area,” reflects owner Peter Parry.

Peter Parry of Steranko in West Didsbury (Image: Manchester Evening News)

“People travel from quite a distance to go to Greens so obviously they won’t come anymore. It’s a bit of class they brought here and they promoted vegetarianism. I’m also pretty sad about the landlord issue.

If that’s true, the whole putting rent up by 30% in this climate when hospitality is already struggling, well then that is very disappointing. “While its been a positive picture for us as a business recently, shopping habits have changed and people are shopping locally rather than the city centre, for hospitality it’s trickier. I think they will struggle to fill these vacant premises, so it doesn’t look that good at the moment. We’ve heard from some other businesses where rent has been backdated to the pandemic.”

‘There’s been a downtown in trade’

While hospitality is used to a certain amount of turbulence, with units somewhat regularly closing and new concepts opening, Burton Road has recently seen its chippy close, as has takeaway The Canadian Charcoal Pit, which understandably makes other hospitality businesses nervous.

Claire, the general manager at restaurant and bar, The George Charles, has worked at the business for nine years and has seen a lot change in West Didsbury, and says a reduction in VAT, similar to the freeze during Covid, would be very welcome right now. “I was gutted when I saw the news about Greens. I saw it announced on Instagram yesterday afternoon and I was so shocked that a business that had been going for that long and had such a strong reputation had been forced to close because of costs,” she says.

“I think overall the scene in West Didsbury and Burton Road is still thriving, however over the last year we’ve definitely noticed a downturn in trade, there’s not as many people coming out and people aren’t spending as much as they used to.

Claire, General Manager at The George Charles (Image: Manchester Evening News)

“For us, rent, wages, and the cost of our ingredients have all gone up, so a break in VAT would be a massive help. When the government dropped it during Covid it really helped keep our business afloat, so that would be one thing we would really appreciate.” While the mood in West Didsbury was sombre following the Greens announcement, by the next morning, people were out and about, slowly emerging from the Christmas break to meet with friends and catch-up over brunch in one of many of Didsbury’s cafes.

Rachel, who grew up and lives in Didsbury had just finished grabbing breakfast with her friend and said she’s worried about the knock-on effect of Greens closing, despite many spots along the road being filled with customers. “I’m almost as old as Greens so it’s very sad to see it go.

Greens Restaurant, Lapwing Lane in 2004 (Image: Phil Taylor)

“The local mood is really disappointed. They’ve been open all that time and if someone who is so high profile and has done so well in that industry has done all that and that’s happened to them, what is going to happen to the others? “No one knows what’s going to happen to the building or the hospitality industry around here because it’s a thriving area and people have disposable income to spend.

“It’s just really sad for local people.

I’ve been a few times and recommended it to people and it was very important at a time when there weren’t many flying that flag – they were definitely ahead of others, so to see them not rewarded and subsequently penalised, it really makes you think about what happens next.”

References

^ Didsbury (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ owners confirmed its sudden closure (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ click here (manchester.page.link)
^ were quick to share their sadness at the ‘devastating’ news (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ Sale (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ Tesco (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ Sacha Lord issued a stark warning (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ Altrincham (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)
^ Christmas (www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk)